Imported Lagers

I appreciate a nice pilsner or dunkel-style dark beer as much as the next frau.

My ancestors on my mom’s side hail from the tiny village of Frommern in southern Germany, and to pay homage, I’ve nursed many a stein of this most delicious liquid.

But to suggest Oktoberfest is all about the drinking?

Du scherzst mich! You’ve gotta be kidding me!

I’d argue this most famous of German festivals, first held in Munich in 1810, is as much about the food — and we’re not just talking the giant soft pretzels revelers enjoy with tangy mustard or lebkuchenherzen, heart-shaped gingerbread cookies strung on ribbons and decorated with icing messages of love.

What’s Oktoberfest without a crispy wiener schnitzel or juicy bratwurst on a crusty roll? Or spaetzle sauteed in butter, or cooked red cabbage? And sauerkraut. Can’t forget the sauerkraut if you want to be authentic.

Unless, of course, you don’t.

Traditional sometimes equals boring. So to make the food as merry as the oompah music at your Oktoberfest celebration, we’ve decided to offer a non-traditional take on some favorite German dishes.

That’s what you’ll find at Church Brew Works in Pittsburgh, where chef Jason Marrone says, “For Oktoberfest, we try to stay true to German cuisine and flavors, but still maintain some of the nuances that make the Church Brew Works special.” His Oktoberfest pierogies are filled with bratwurst and sauerkraut and served with a gherkin-mustard sauce.